In Morocco, I sense a certain ancient wisdom that I don’t feel anywhere else. I can see this wisdom in the eyes of especially older people. As if they know a deep truth that I don’t. My feeling of not knowing, of not possessing this specific wisdom may also have to do with a cultural naivety and that I don’t always know how to behave in all situations. But most of the time I just feel a strong connection and warm hospitality. I love Morocco, I love the genuine hospitality of the people and how what I encounter affects all my senses. The nature, the smells, the sounds, the encounters, the intensity. The food. Waking up at 5 in the morning to the melodious calls to prayer is magical. Morocco feels far removed from the settled, predictable Europe – it is full of contrasts and colors and unexpected events. It is a fascinating blend of ancient and modern life. Varied landscapes from desert to river valleys, to canyons and high mountains.
Seeing the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas Mountains gives me immense satisfaction and happiness, not to mention traveling through the mountains – an indescribable experience.
A rich cultural diversity
The Amazigh (Berber) are the original people of Morocco and their language is Tamazight. The Arabs arrived in the 8th century and took control of the political, cultural and social spheres. Today, Arabs and Berbers live in close proximity and bilingualism and trilingualism are common in modern Morocco. From 1912 to 1956, Morocco was a French protectorate and French is considered a second language and official language alongside Arabic, but it is not an official language.
A Jewish community played a significant role in the economic life of Morocco until the numbers of this group decreased. Other groups in Morocco Sub-Saharan Africans and Gnawas and Europeans (1%).
The Gnawas are a diaspora of black West Africans in Morocco, who were historically forced across the Sahara and sold as slaves in various parts of Morocco. Known for their spiritual music and dance traditions, the Gnawas often perform in Marrakech and Essaouira. They have found their own identity among Morocco’s Muslims, and few of them have returned to the Sahel region.
The Last Nomads
The Ait Atta clan emerged as a political entity in the Jbel Sahro region in the 16th century with the founding of their traditional capital Iyerm Amazdar. They then took control of oases in the Tafilait and Draa River. They fiercely resisted the French invasion of Morocco until 1933 and were the last of Morocco to fall. The languages of the clan are Tamazight (in the Central Atlas) and Tachelhit. -Source: Wikipedia.
This is one of the oldest lifestyles on earth and one of the few nomadic peoples that still exist. The Ait Atta live in an area that stretches from the High Atlas to the dunes of the Sahara. Every year they make two seasonal migrations with their livestock and their entire households, transhumant tarahhalt. Transhumant means a coexistence of permanent settlement and pastoral nomadism. The annual movements are a journey of resilience on foot. They move to reach agdal* where everyone with rights can take their livestock. “As part of this traditional system of communal natural resource management, the Ait Atta tribe preserves their ancestral right of access to the agdal that dates back hundreds of years, although it is often denied and challenged by the villagers who have settled around it. (Source: The Ait Atta of Southern Morocco Daily Life and Recent History; David Hart)
Continuing to live as a nomadic people is challenging in many ways. Drought and climate change have made it increasingly difficult for the nomads. This basically means less food for the animals, and less water, and it affects the livestock production that is the main source of livelihood for the families. Education for the children is another challenge. The Ait Attas know how important education is for their children and many leave their children with relatives for this reason. Access to education also makes the children question the nomadic life and seek other ways of living. This is according to our partner Morocco Green Tours’ founder Hassan Oumaarir, himself an Ait Atta.
*agdals refer to a wide variety of different governance systems for natural resources.
Transhumance Walk
With our partner Morocco Green Tours, it is possible to participate in the Transhumance Walk, a hike with the Ait Atta nomads as they migrate for the winter (or back for the summer). The tour is 12 days and includes 8 days of trekking. The Transhumance is organized in collaboration Morocco Green Tours and a selected family.
You don’t have to be fit but physically healthy, used to hiking and walking, as it involves 5-6 hours of hiking every day for 8 days. The best part; The Transhumance Walk is not staged for viewing, it is real, it is participation, and it provides financial support to the families.
For those who find Transhumance too challenging, there are easier and less challenging tours and ways to immerse yourself in the culture such as a 3 day (4 night) family stay with a Berber family in the Atlas Mountains. Morocco Green Tours also organize hikes in the Atlas and Rif mountains.
Morocco Green Tours
The founder of MGT is Hassan Oumaarir. He is a trained mountain guide and certified tour operator by CFAMM (Center de Formation Aux Métiers Montagnes). Hassan, born in the mountainous region of southern Morocco, speaks French, Arabic and English in addition to his native Tamazight. His many years of work with travel agencies has provided experience of the terrain of the Atlas Mountains and the desert. Morocco Green Tours was founded to give people an authentic experience in Morocco, eco-friendly hiking trips, local experiences, and they offer proximity to Moroccan nature and culture. Green Tours values cultural, local-friendly and sustainable tourism and they employ trained local guides, drivers and work closely with Ait Atta families. With them you can visit villages where you move on foot with a guide who knows the villagers. Those who take part in the Transhumance Walk get to accompany Ait Atta families as they move through the Atlas Mountains southwards. You share the hike, meals and tents with the nomads.
you learn about the lifestyle and move with the families in caravans for 12 days (and nights). Moving slowly through captivating landscapes, on hiking trails and passing the Ouzoud waterfalls and beautiful rural landscapes of the Ait Bouguemez valley. The hikes are done southwards in September and back in May. It is an enriching and captivating experience for 12 days, living and moving close to the nomads and helping with some of the daily tasks.
For more info about their tours and inspiration for your own tailor-made trip, check out their website HERE
